The 2012 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is superb, rivaled only by the 2010 and 2015 among recent vintages of this near-monopole, unfurling in the glass with notions of cassis, currant leaf, rich soil, smoked duck, incense and richly savory bass notes. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and multidimensional, with a lovely line of tangy acidity, considerable depth at the core and a long, sapid finish. After shutting down for a few years, the wine is already beginning to open up and realize the promise it showed from barrel.