The 1994 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is drinking beautifully, soaring from the glass with a classic bouquet of briary black fruits, cigar ash, fresh tobacco and loamy soil. Medium-bodied, supple and seamless, with melting tannins and a fleshy core of fruit, it's an immensely charming, notably over-performing vintage for this estate that's in its prime today.