The 2010 Bonnes-Mares is explosive and totally exciting. A big, broad- shouldered frame supports a core of black fruit, mint, flowers and licorice in this powerful, massively structured wine. Here, too, it is the wine's energy and focus that truly stand out most. The finish turns weightless and totally sublime. As usual, I tasted the Bonnes-Mares from its two main components, and then in the blend, and it was the blend that was most convincing of the three wines. The 2010 Bonnes-Mares is a wine built for a long rest in the cellar before it begins to approach the early part of what promises to be a long drinking window. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2050. The only real problem with Christophe Roumier's 2010s is the production, which was severely compromised by the December 2009 frost and the poor weather of 2010, especially during the flowering. On a more positive note, the wines are marked by their total transparency. Some of the entry-level wines are a bit on the light side, but the best 1er Crus and the Grand Crus are magical. Roumier started picking on September 28. Some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. I will report on the 2009s in our April issue. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600