Tasted blind at the chateau, it is always a privilege to taste a legend with perfect provenance, although I could not bring myself to describe it as a perfect wine. But is does possess and ethereal bouquet that has laser-like focus: notes of pencil lead, mint, blackberry and limestone. Intriguingly there is a touch of menthol that emerges with aeration, which reminded me of the '45. The palate has an otherworldly intensity to it with vibrant black fruit, an arching framework of tannins, brilliant minerality and sense of precision on the finish that is captivating. It has become more elegant in recent years, perhaps three-quarters of the way through its drinking plateau. But few wines have a drinking plateau as long as this one. Tasted June 2011.