Have I shortchanged Rostaing's incredible 2017 Cote Rotie Cote Brune? Swirling notes of roses, herbal tea and lavender potpourri impart kaleidoscopic complexity on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is creamy-ripe in texture yet silky, lithe and downright sexy. Firm tannins on the lengthy finish leave a lasting impression of longevity, of restrained intensity that should carry this wine at least two decades into the future.