The 1998 Cotes du Rhone Cairanne Vieilles Vignes (some of the vines are over 100 years old) is a blend of 60% Grenache, with the balance Carignan, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvedre. It offers intriguing, peppery, ripe berry fruit with overtones of espresso and chocolate. In the mouth, one can taste the artisinal, rustic, full-bodied, powerful style of this wine. Chewy, dense, long, and intense, if the tannin becomes better integrated, it may merit an outstanding score. A very good value, it should drink well for 7-8 years. This is a wine well-worth searching out. FRAN KYSELA, 130 Windy Hill Lane, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; fax (540) 722-9258