Bessin's stunning 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur opens in the glass with a complex bouquet of Meyer lemon, white flowers, peach, oyster shells, pastry cream and fresh mint. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny-textured and multidimensional, with broad shoulders, striking depth and concentration, racy acids and a long, searingly mineral finish. This bottling, which still flies under the radar compared to many of Chablis's finest wines, is well worth a special effort to seek out.