The 2004 Brut Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvee could not be more different than the 2003. Bright floral aromatics meld into white fleshed fruit, spices and crushed rocks as the 2004 opens up in the glass. There is a crystalline purity to the 2004 that is striking. A weightless, totally pure wine, the 2004 Coeur de Cuvee impresses for its fabulous length, and vibrant, chiseled finish. This is a great showing from Vilmart and proprietor Laurent Champs. The 2004 is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir from the Blanches Voies Hautes in Rilly la Montagne. Disgorgement date: December 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Laurent Champs crafts impeccable, elegant Champagnes of the highest level. The Vilmart Champagnes are so delicious when they are released I doubt too many are purchased for cellaring, but the reality is that the wines also age exceptionally well. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300