One of the deeper colored wines in Penfolds' portfolio is the 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707. Aromas of forest floor, underbrush, black currants, and old wood emerge from this medium-bodied Cabernet. A clipped finish again suggests a bizarre fascination with low pH and acid levels that has nothing to do with the vineyard, terroir, vintage character, or pleasure. Nevertheless, there is enough black currant fruit to pull this wine into the acceptable category. Drink it over the next 7-8 years.
Penfolds needs to take a long, critical look at its winemaking philosophy. This is the great name in Australian winedom, and they should be a leader and reference point for fine winemaking. Obviously, they have access to some tremendous vineyard sites, and from a budgetary standpoint, they appear capable of doing anything they want. What is the purpose of sculpting wines that are essentially the products of a few oenologists connecting the dots and making wines by the numbers? The lack of naturalness and soul in these wines is worrisome.
Importer: PWG Vintners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 996-4504