An open, floral nose announces the 2008 Barolo Rocche. This is a surprisingly steely, intense Rocche with little of the early appeal this wine usually offers. Instead, readers will find a structured, inward Barolo that should develop handsomely for at least two decades. A hint of feminine, Rocche sensuality emerges on the finish, but readers are best served cellaring this beauty for at least a handful of years. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. I can't say enough good things about the Brovia family and what they have accomplished over the years, but especially over the last decade or so, which has seen them jump into the upper echelon of Barolo producers. The 2008s had just been bottled when I tasted them in November 2011. Now that the wines have been in bottle a little longer, it is clear they are fulfilling all of their early promise. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990