The king of the cellar is the 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru, a magical wine in the making that wafts from the glass with aromas of cherries, red berries, exotic spices, licorice and orange rind. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and concentrated, with lively acids and a strikingly persistent finish. Again, this looks likely to emerge as the finest of the 2018, 2019 and 2020 trio chez Hudelot-Noëllat.