Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques from Fourrier is showing the most stems on the nose, but it is so full of character with supreme delineation. The aromatics clearly need three or four years to fully coalesce. The palate is divine: supremely fine tannin, perfectly judged acidity, utterly harmonious with not a hair out of place on the finish. There is so much sophistication here that it does not know what to do with itself. This is the Clos Saint Jacques that is leading the pack - a quite brilliant wine from Jean-Marie Fourrier.