Robert Parker - 95

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru has turned out beautifully in bottle, opening in the glass with integrated aromas of pear, citrus oil, fresh bread and white flowers. Full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's elegantly textural, deep and complete, with terrific balance, fine concentration and a long, nicely defined finish.

Robert Parker - 96

The estate's flagship 2005 Clos de la Roche Cuvee Vieilles Vignes surges from the glass in an aromatic tidal wave of liqueur-like black raspberry essence, cinnamon spice, praline, chocolate and heady floral sweetness. Incontrovertibly fat and full, not about clarity or discretion but rather about thick, sumptuous layers of flavor that blanket the palate, this will not be every taster's idea of a great Burgundy - or perhaps even a good time. Still, there is lift, bright juiciness and a sense of emerging elegance in a finish where sheer intensity and unabashed richness rule but neither the fruit nor tannins are the least bit coarse, and stony, chalky underpinnings break the surface with their own sort of austere beauty. (Thankfully, there is roughly ten times the amount of this wine as of Clos St.-Denis.) Laurent Ponsot (like his father) vinifies to the beat of a different drummer, whether it is in his employment of a basket press from 1945, his reliance on exclusively (truly) old barrels, his aggressive pigeage, or his virtual refusal (since 1988) to sulfur the wines (nitrogen and CO2 are administered at bottling). The results are as distinctive as the methods, but also profoundly impressive and proven to age magnificently. Certainly one has to adjust to a background level of chocolate and that lack of a certain "pep" that is otherwise conveyed, MSG-wise, to wines given a normal quota of sulfur during their elevage. But after a few samples - and especially when I re-tasted these wines "cold" at 7:00 A.M. - I was fully attuned to their virtues. The alcohols in 2005 are as high as 15%, but you do not notice it, even when told. Asked when he intends to bottle, Ponsot replies "I don't know. Maybe one or two in the Spring, maybe before the harvest, maybe afterward." Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.

Antonio Galloni Vinous Media - 89

The 2005 Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is a controversial wine in my experience with a couple of bottles, including one served blind showing Grenache-like traits. Returning to this vintage after four years, I remain unconvinced by the nose. Here, there is a wet clayey aspect and a lack of fruit that you would expect for this feted millésime. The palate is medium-bodied and demonstrates more freshness than the previous bottle. A fine sappiness upholds freshness, and it's pretty linear in style, just lacking dimension and nuance toward the finish. This represents one of the better bottles I've tasted, certainly superior to one shown in London before, yet I would have expected more. Tasted at Ponsot's 150th anniversary vertical at the Domaine.

Robert Parker - 96

Jancis Robinson - 20/20

Jancis Robinson - 17/20

Cask sample. Mid crimson. Light but convincing nose. Very tight and youthful with evident acidity. You would never guess this was from a heatwave vintage. Set for the long term. And with the usual refinement.

Robert Parker - 89

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée, matured in 50% new oak, finished its malolactic in October. It has a perfumed, quite floral bouquet, a mixture of blackberry and blueberry fruit with just a hint of crushed violet. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, a subtle marine influence with a touch of sea salt on the vibrant finish. I expect this will land at the top of my banded score once in bottle.

Jancis Robinson - 16/20

Cask sample. Deep purplish crimson. Very intense, attention-grabbing nose but those grating, drying, pinched tannins on the end still. The score is for drama rather than pleasure. 

Robert Parker - 95

The 2018 Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru soars from the glass with a rich bouquet of cassis, dark berries, baking chocolate, woodsmoke, loamy soil, licorice and grilled game. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with terrific energy and structural refinement despite the wine's texture and volume and a long, saline finish.

Antonio Galloni Vinous Media - 94

The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is the most opulent of the four tasted from this vineyard, ravishing dark cherries, raspberry and cranberry scents, touches of tobacco and humidor. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, real structure and density, still quite oaky with a creamy texture though that will be subsumed with time. A serious Grand Cru that will demand several years in bottle, but mercurial and just losing some of its initial finesse with aeration. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.

Jancis Robinson - 19/20

50% new oak and 50% one-year-old barrels. Barrel sample. Mid crimson. Open and scented with vanilla-laced dark-red fruits. Firm, almost chewy on the palate. Like all these Faiveley grands crus, the oak is not hidden but is swallowed by pure fruit, perfectly ripe but not overripe and with that wonderful character of purity without excess sweetness. Excellent balance between ripeness and freshness. Chewy, structured finish. Coming back to this wine after it has been open longer, there’s a floral note that is easy to miss and adds to the incipient complexity. (JH)

Robert Parker - 96

Surprisingly, the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins was much more open, rounded and sexy than the more austere, angular Marie Beurrier. This is a gorgeous, classic effort by Bonneau that's overflowing with notions of sweet Grenache fruit, Provencal garrigue, cured meats, beef blood and spice. The aromatics alone are worth the price of admission, and the palate doesn't lose a beat, with full-bodied richness, a full, layered, concentrated mid-palate and sweet tannin on the finish. Like the Marie Beurrier, the acidity here is elevated, yet in this case, it's beautifully woven into the wine. It offers serious pleasure now, yet will have no problems continuing to evolve nicely for another 15+ years.

Antonio Galloni Vinous Media - 96

Full ruby. Huge, room-filling bouquet of blackberry compote, cherry, potpourri and cured tobacco, along with an intense spicy quality and a hint of orange zest. Palate-staining dark fruit flavors are braced by a strong mineral component and complicated by star anise and candied lavender nuances. Refuses to let up on the finish, which emphatically echoes the dark berry and lavender notes. There are tannins lurking in here but they're buried beneath this wine's powerful fruit.

Antonio Galloni Vinous Media - 96

Faiveley’s 2009 Mazis-Chambertin took things to another level with its exquisite perfume, silky personality and alluring personality. Ample and resonant, the 2009 Mazis was magnificent. I admit, I had a second glass. What a wine!