The 2003 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape has turned out well. Deep ruby with some purple nuances, this wine is medium to full-bodied and reveals notes of licorice, pepper, Asian spices, black cherry, raspberry, and currant, as well as a relatively big, sweet palate impression with moderate tannin in the finish. It is accessible, but will benefit from 2-3 years of aging. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Importers: Vieux Telegraphe and Pigoulet: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; Chateau La Roquette: Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400